Happi March 2016 by TBC on April 27, 2016

In 2016, women are anything but nonchalant about the products in their makeup bags. Nearly half (49%) intended to start off the new year by tossing old, worn out products and replacing them with new options, noted Jennifer Stansbury, co-founder and managing partner, The Benchmarking Company. Also, 36% of women specifically intend for those replacements to be high-end color cosmetics.

According to Stansbury, a big trend that will remain hot this year is the makeup consumer’s robust interest in all types of makeup tutorials.

“Nearly half (46%) of all women intend to watch instructional videos to strengthen their makeup technique, and we see these kinds of tips and tricks remaining a key part of her beauty arsenal,” she told Happi. “And perhaps because these tutorials tend to show very trendy looks, just over a third of women also intend to try trendier makeup as well.”

Millennials like their makeup; and some like lots of it! According to analytics firm Tabs Group, younger and older millennials are heavy cosmetics buyers—i.e., those who purchase more than 10 types of products a year.

And the proof is in the numbers. According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), mass market sales of three key color cosmetic categories—face, lip and eye—all rose last year. Facial cosmetic sales rose 3.6% to $1.9 billion, lip cosmetic sales climbed 10.5% to $840.4 million and the eye cosmetic category increased 4.6% to $2.1 billion in US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 27, 2015. Sales within the nail cosmetics category were flat at $1.6 billion but marketers continue to innovate in this sector, note industry observers.

Meanwhile, US prestige beauty product sales rose 7% to $16 billion last year, according to global information company The NPD Group, Inc. Makeup experienced the healthiest sales growth at 13% to $6.8 billion. The merging of skin care and cosmetics provided a lift, explained NPD’s expert.

“In 2015, we saw even more concretely how the roles of makeup and skin care are becoming intertwined. The immediate results of slimming, lifting, tone correcting and radiance achieved by makeup face products is not only influencing consumers’ relationship with makeup, but also with that of skin care,” observed Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Consumers are shopping for and using makeup differently.”

The growth in prestige face makeup is accelerating, driven largely by concealer and other face products including primers and contour, highlighting and sculpting kits—in line with the contouring and strobing trends which came to life in 2015, according to NPD data. Eyebrows continued to outperform the eye makeup segment, and lip color saw the largest increases within the lip segment. For the first time, brown/nude lip color shades surpassed pink or red as the leading color!

A Specialized Approach

Experts agree spring 2016 will be all about individuality. According to Luis Casco, Mary Kay global makeup artist, Los Angeles, “On the spring runways, we saw two different points of view that will really fit any woman’s makeup inspiration. The first trend for spring is a sheer, modern and fresh look. Not only was this a huge trend on the runway, but has also been seen on the red carpet—think Alicia Vikander at the Golden Globes. Skin is luminous, and the overall look is effortless. Color is soft and ‘petal’ like. Pinks, lilacs, taupes and shimmery shades make the eyelids softly glow. These shades are nicely captured in Mary Kay’s new Limited-Edition Into the Garden Color Compact.”

The second trend for spring, said Casco, is a more dressed up look, for the woman who is not afraid of standing out. “Well-shaped brows paired with bold lashes and lips made an appearance on runways. Deep lips are traditionally seen in fall, but in 2016 we will see reds, plums, browns and wine colors year-round,” he said.

Serenity and Rose Quartz have been selected as Pantone’s Color of the Year selection for 2016—“a harmonious pairing of inviting shades that embody a mindset of tranquility and inner peace,” according to the color authority. As consumers seek mindfulness and well-being as an antidote to the stress of modern day lives, welcoming colors that psychologically fulfill the yearning for reassurance and security are becoming more prominent, according to Pantone. Weightless and airy, like the expanse of the blue sky, Serenity comforts with a calming effect, bringing feelings of respite and relaxation even in turbulent times. Rose Quartz is a persuasive, yet gentle, tone that conveys compassion and a sense of composure.

“With the whole greater than its individual parts, joined together Serenity and Rose Quartz demonstrate an inherent balance between a warmer embracing rose tone and the cooler tranquil blue, reflecting connection and wellness as well as a soothing sense of order and peace,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute.

Faces Going Places

Much like in the realm of fine fragrance, celebrities and fashion designers are seeing success in forays into color cosmetics. Consider legendary shoe designer Christian Louboutin, who recently entered the beauty floor at retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom in select locations. He began more than 20 years ago with the now iconic “Red Sole” (all CL shoes feature a red-hued bottom) and continued in 2014 with the launch of Rouge Louboutin Nail Colour and 30 subsequent shades of highly pigmented, uniquely formulated polish. Upon entering the new beauty environments, clients will be immersed in Louboutin’s richly colored world, and their discovery assisted by stylish “Loubi Ambassadors” shod in Christian Louboutin shoes, of course. The brand also recently expanded its offerings with a full range of 36 shades of lip colors.

One of the loudest buzzes in the beauty realm this season is the collaboration between Urban Decay and Gwen Stefani. No stranger to the cosmetic business, Stefani has worked with Coty’s OPI in the past for a nail range, as previously reported in Happi. Urban Decay chief creative officer and founding partner Wende Zomnir spent countless hours at Stefani’s house talking makeup and working with her on every detail of this launch from the packaging to the formulation to the shades for the limited-edition UD Gwen Stefani collection.Products span from eyeshadow and blush palettes to Stefani’s specialty, lipstick.

According to the company, Stefani tested more than 50 shades! The lineup of eight brand-new hues also includes one shade (714) in a brand-new finish UD dubbed Mega Matte—a super-intense matte that lays down tons of pigment in just one coat. And of course, each shade features UD’s proprietary Pigment Infusion System for creamy texture, rich payout and superior color dispersion.

Stefani said in a press statement, “When Urban Decay came to me to collaborate, I immediately thought it was a perfect match. The way they’ve built their company is very similar to my aesthetic and approach. It’s all about creative self-expression, being strong and not being afraid to go outside of the box. Everyone in my life knows I absolutely love makeup. From a very young age, it was an artistic passion of mine. I actually used to be a makeup artist. I love wearing makeup and having so many ways to express myself through it. It’s my war paint. To be able to do a collaboration with people who get that concept and who are just as passionate about it is a dream come true. We’ve made and created products that I actually wear every single day. It’s the real thing.”

Meanwhile, M·A·C is honoring both designers and performers with a variety of launches for spring 2016. It also is reaching out to its clientele with a new loyalty program, M·A·C Select—and this season, the brand is offering loyalists plenty to covet.

After dazzling women with his modern but timeless designs on the runway and red carpet for 13 years, New York designer Zac Posen presents his debut color collection for M·A·C. From the iconic packaging to the square-handled contour and buffer brushes that boast the designer’s mark, every loving detail that Posen adorns on the female form takes on new shape for the face.

Also for the season, designer Chris Chang of Poesia puts an acid-soaked twist on her modern M·A·C collection, featuring a vivid kaleidoscope of cutting-edge color, inspired by the ancient Chinese art form Kunqu. Available in May 2016, products include 14 SKUs: lipsticks, eyeshadows, cream color base, fluidline and pressed powder with special decoration.

Also for spring, M·A·C has bulked up its Viva Glam fundraising collection with two new picks from actress/signer Ariana Grande. Offerings include a matte plum lipstick and a shimmering pink “Lipglass” lipgloss.

In fact, teen and tween scene talent is a top trend for color cosmetics in 2016. NYC Color recently debuted its Demi Lovato Capsule Collection. The NYC New York Color Palette Eye Shadow, Lip & Cheek Tint, Mascara & Eyebrow Liner created exclusively by Demi Lovato are all available at Target and Walmart stores now. As the brand’s ambassador since January 2015, Demi Lovato is celebrating her first anniversary by launching the highly anticipated “Lovatics Collection” in gratitude to her fans.

Also in recent news, CoverGirl has partnered with actress and musician Zendaya as the fresh new face of its campaign. Zendaya’s first ad launched live during the Grammy Awards on Feb. 15 featuring a new lineup of CoverGirl products—Plumpify Mascara by blastPro, truNaked shadow palette and liners and Colorlicious Oh Sugar Lip Balm. This summer, Zendaya will be the face of CoverGirl’s cornerstone collection, the iconic line of Clean products, plus a new mascara.

“Watching Zendaya’s work and authentic conversation with fans in social media was truly inspiring to us at CoverGirl,” said Esi Eggleston Bracey, executive vice president, Global Color Cosmetics, P&G. “She is not afraid to stand up for what she believes, and makes no apologies for who she is—we love her energy, confidence, and willingness to experiment and express herself with makeup. I know that together, we will do big things and help evolve the perception of beauty today.”

Creating the Canvas

When spring hits, women want to brighten winter-dull skin. According to Chelsa Crowley, chief creative officer, Stowaway Cosmetics, New York, a great way to do so is with a little color—a bronze-y, coral cheek, for instance. “I also like using a highlighter mixed in with your moisturizer or BB cream,” she told Happi.” I’m a huge fan of face mists as well, used over your makeup (they) will give your skin the perfect sheen.”

Crowley’s travel-friendly makeup line features a variety of facial offerings like the Radiant Complexion Beauty Balm and a Creaseless Concealer as “right size premium products” online that consumers can use before expiration. The brand is celebrating its one-year anniversary with some expansions for 2016.

Novel elements reign this spring, too. For example, with a dedicated biotechnology group focused on the next microalgae-based breakthroughs, it didn’t take long for Algenist to make the leap into  beauty with skin-perfecting makeup. At a recent event in New York City, the brand unveiled Reveal, a makeup line utilizing a multitude of microalgae-based species to color correct and improve skin’s tone and radiance. Formulated with a new and proprietary AlgaCorrecting Complex, Reveal uses naturally-occurring red, blue, green and golden algae to camouflage skin imperfections, while delivering powerful anti-aging skin care benefits, said the company. Reveal also contains patented alguronic acid to help rejuvenate the skin for a more youthful appearance, according to the brand.

LVMH’S Make Up For Ever also utilizes sea ingredients with the latest addition to its Ultra HD range with a new concealer. Billed as luminous and comfortable, this unique formula focuses on correcting and concealing dark under eye circles while seamlessly blurring fine lines and wrinkles. Lamellar structure pigments reflect and diffuse light, while an anti-dark circle complex comprised of green algae and amino acids help conceal and correct combined with a radiance booster comprised of an Asian berry extract that helps stimulate collagen production to brighten and smooth skin.

Lorac, which gained a new investor in Encore Consumer Capital, as previously reported in Happi, is also making use of innovative ingredients with its new Sheer PoreFection Foundation. This oil, paraben- and fragrance-free makeup is infused with anti-aging antioxidants of vitamins A and E, olive leaf extract, lemon fruit extract and papaya fruit extract to help soothe, nourish and rejuvenate.

Containing sun protection, Nars is rolling out a first to market formula, the highly anticipated Velvet Matte Skin Tint SPF 30. Said to deliver “soft-matte perfection and protection,” this oil-free, ultra-blendable formula delivers Nars’ signature natural-looking finish and shine control with the skin care benefits of an all-in-one treatment. With an expertly refined range of 12 global shades, Velvet Matte Skin Tint offers coverage for every skin tone.

For those on the move, touchups have never been easier with the new L’Oréal Paris True Match Lumi Cushion Foundation, giving skin a sheer, natural luminescence. True Match Lumi Cushion delivers the most even and customizable coverage yet. The liquid foundation you can carry like a compact is available in 12 shades and comes with a non-absorbent applicator puff to keep the application easy, clean and convenient.

IT Cosmetics is amping up its skin-perfecting formulations with a CC+ Veil Beauty Fluid Foundation SPF 50+ cushion compact. Clinically proven to brighten the complexion, this innovative breakthrough is an anti-aging serum and SPF 50+ infused with pure coverage pigments, peptides, niacin, algae, vitamins A, C, B and E, hyaluronic acid and hydrolyzed collagen. It is buildable for sheer to medium coverage.

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